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Type of string
August 20, 2010
1:29 am
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Matthew Seeley
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Firstly, i should explain that the machine i am referring to here belongs to me and is a lock out hand crank machine, thus a continuous pull machine (probably electronic) that also has the ability to prestretch strings (so they stretch less after being pulled) tends to maintain a better tension, and this seems obvious in my opinion!

 

It is my experience (as I string my own rackets and some for my friends)  that the slightly thinner strings like BG80 and BG85 retain a little more tension in my rackets than slightly thicker strings. I feel the thinner ones (or maybe THESE thinner ones) stretch less and hence retain their tension better.

 

In most instances, I find that if i string a racket at a certain tension e.g. 24/26, then after the strings have settled (24 hours) they tend to have lost 1 lb more than what i did on the main strings – i.e. before playing but after stringing, the stringbed tension is about 23 lbs. This is because, as Paul says, the string stretches. After you start hitting, the tension will go down a little more as the strings continue to stretch. I find they will lose a further 1 lb, finishing at 22 lbs string bed tension. This tends to be true up to about 29/31 lbs when i string my rackets. However, using a thicker string, the string tends to lose another 0.5 – 1 lbs in tension.

 

For example: Stringing my carlton Vapour Trail Tour racket 25/27 lbs with BG80 will result in a final tension in the string bed after a few hours of play at about 23 lbs. The Same job done with BG65/BG65Ti would finish slightly softer at 22 – 22.5 lbs.

 

Fortunately i tend to find my rackets (all carlton) tend to hold their tension after these initial losses very well, until they are nearly about to break, when there is a noticeable loss of tension.

 

For BG 80 (given I play on average about 10 hours a week – 15 when training) the above stringing job would last me about 4 weeks before I decided i needed to change the strings (but they wouldn't BREAK for another 2/3 weeks). However, when I am using the higher tensions (27 upwards) I tend to find i need to change the string every 2-3 weeks to maintain a good tension – and NOT changing can result in noticeable losses in accuracy and power, immediately rectified by restringing. However, having improved my technique a lot recently, I now find the lower tensions (about 23/24 lbs string bed tension) are all i need, as accuracy is coming a result of better technique.

 

This is just some information about my experiences as a stringer/player and hope it helps some people when considering string tensions. I would not recommend stringing a racket at too high a tension unless you can afford to keep restringing and the higher tension IMPROVES your game, which it does not usually do beyond a certain point.

August 20, 2010
10:53 am
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Lukas
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Thanks for the response.

 

But should I go for another string or stay with BG65TI or BG65 and restring it to 21lbs?

 

Lukas

August 20, 2010
12:58 pm
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Paul Stewart
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Lukas

If you're happy with Bg65Ti I'd stick with it. I still believe it's one of the best strings in the world.

Earlier in the thread it was asked whether you should increase tension if changing from plastic shuttles to feather shuttles. In my experience whenever you play with plastic shuttles you should lower tension. Despite what the manufacturers say, a plastic does not fly like a feather. You have to thump them hard to get any response whereas you can stroke a feather combining correct technique with timing to get the result you're after. So yes, you can increase tension when changing to feather shuttles.

The difficulty here is that some players play at different clubs and therefore are subject to using feathers one night and plastics the next. You really need to consider your string tension carefully in situations like these. I'd recommend 20lbs if this was the case which should provide adequate cover for both shuttle types.

The good news is that, with string elasticity, this means you're probably using a playing tension around 18/19lbs so it's pretty safe on your arm.

 

Paul

August 20, 2010
1:49 pm
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Lukas
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Thanks Paul

August 24, 2010
9:37 pm
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Ed
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Hi *

Just a sharing of experience, I was getting rather used to BG65, but a few weeks ago my strings broke. I remembered this thread, read it, saw on the site of my supplier he offered the BG65 as well as the 65TI for the same price. So I gave it a go and asked for the TI @ 9Kg. Indeed, this TI feels great. I played worse than I ever played that first night, but it got better the following occasions. It seemed I just had to get used to the new string. I always stay arround 9-9.5Kg, this feels like a good tension for feathers and for plastic.

Cheers, Ed

December 19, 2010
5:35 am
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Jin
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Hi,

 

Just thought I'd ask a quick question because I've been thinking about this a while. Is there a better type of string to use if you play plastics mostly (and feathers occasionally). Or rather, is there a string to avoid?? I've been told my some people to avoid certain types of strings, but I'm not particularly sure which one is best for both plastics and feathers. I'm glad I've read this topic because of the string tension guidance – definitely useful info and I'll be sticking to around 20lbs now I think. I have a reel of Zymax 67 btw, but haven't applied it to a racket yet because I need a new one. Any thoughts? Thanks guys

 

Jin

December 21, 2010
3:10 pm
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Paul Stewart
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Jin

The Ashaway string should do the job very nicely although expect more string movement than usual as it seems to be the norm for this string.

In general I'd avoid the very thin guage strings when playing plastics. For me BG80, BG66 are out or Ashaway Zymax 62.

Yet again, string choice is personal and I'm sure there are players using these strings now and playing with plastic shuttles. As always, it's a case of test and make your own mind up. You may decide that 20lbs is too low. If so, increase by 1lb increments until you find the right tension for you.

My recommendation would be to get rid of playing with plastic shuttle as soon as you can.

Paul

December 21, 2010
5:25 pm
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Jin
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Paul

 

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately the club where I play uses Mavis plastics. I use feathers when I attend coaching sessions once a week so that's my little luxury at the moment. I'll look to find a club with feathers soon enough I think. Maybe I've stopped myself from joining a club with feathers because I expect the players to be 100 times better than me..bad mentality I know!

I've noticed you mentioned you need to 'club' plastics and I've thought about this more and more recently – I've started wondering about the type of racket, as well as the string. I struggle with the plastics more with my even balanced and very light racket and was looking to get a new racket because this racket is starting to crack in places (most likely get a Victor now). I think I'll end up getting a head heavy 'golf club' racket for plastics like a cheap Armortec and a slightly less head heavy and lighter 'proper' racket for my transition to feathers. Maybe this is the only way to play both shuttles effectively for now.

I'll use the Zymax if I do need to re-string a racket. If I get a Victor then hopefully it won't need it straight away anyway. I'll test everything out like you advise. Thanks again

Jin

December 21, 2010
9:20 pm
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Paul Stewart
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Jin

Thanks for the info.

If you're looking for a head heavy Victor racquet, then check out SIW35, it's the beefiest of the lot and probably comes very close to your budget.

There's one thing you need to remember when choosing a head heavy racquet. Your timing on defence is going to be off initially as the racquet will travel slower than you're used to. Make sure you warm up well with the racquet cover on – it will help.

Paul

December 21, 2010
10:11 pm
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Jin
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Paul

 

Do you mean warm up exercises or warm up shots with the cover on? The cover will be full length but I've got a 3/4 length somewhere I could use for warm up shots (Lee Jae Bok style).

I've looked at the SIW 35, but I'm concerned it will be too stiff a racket. I really want to have a go with a TIW Slim (£70), but there's basically no chance and I can't see any reviews, even on Badminton Central. Your favourite Armortec 600 just been reduced to £75 too. I listened to your advice and looked out for the reduction in Armortec prices and low and behold they've happened! I know a dealer who has one Bravesword 09 left for a reduced price too. Three options, but no closer to a decision.

 

Jin

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